Heading Home from Israel

On the way home, we got those seats on the plane that lay flat so you can sleep.  Too bad about all that intermittent air turbulence and the snoring in the seat next to me (no names mentioned).  I do have to say that the food was exceptional and we liked those hot towels they give you before the meal, and unlimited movies.  It was still a 24 hour journey, when you count in the three plane changes and layovers. We were very happy to get home.

Getting Lost in Israel

Driving in the right direction (at last) in Golan Heights

"Separation barrier" and other issues

Gratefully returning the rental car in Tel Aviv

As promised, I am now writing about getting lost in Israel, something we did nearly every day.  Why did we get lost so much?  I place the blame on a) transliterations and b) rental car GPS programming.  Any remaining blame goes to a poor sense of direction.  Be forewarned traveler- an Israeli city or town can be spelled several different ways.  For example, the holy city of Safed is also spelled Tfazet.  Only the vowels are similar.  Also, when you get a GPS device from a rental car company in Israel (at least in our experience), any route in a disputed territory is not displayed.  So, you may be routed to Masada via Tel Aviv.  (For those of you not familiar with the geography of Israel, I'll just tell  you that this is the wrong way to go.)  The upside of getting lost is seeing stuff the average tourist might not.  This includes seeing signs that warn you are entering a Palestinian controlled area, and cautioning Israelis not to enter.  We decided not to enter as well.  A contiguous concrete fence separates many sections of the West Bank from Israel.  This is generally called the "separation barrier" (though the Palestinians have less complimentary terms) and you can see the fence in the middle photo.

In the bottom photo you can see the tail end of our Mazda 6.  Steven was never so grateful to return a rental car in his life, after braving the narrow crowded streets of Tel Aviv and very aggressive drivers.  He had to dig deep to his days of driving the L.A. freeways to make it through.   

Knesset menorah

Knesset menorah by Bruno Elkin. 

Rabbi Hillel and student

This 15 foot bronze menorah stands just outside the Knesset (Israeli parliament).  It was a gift of the British to the new nation of Israel, and is based on a menorah that stood outside the First Temple in Jerusalem.  Our guide Miche spent a great deal of time explaining the stories filling every section of the menorah.  It's the entire story of the Jewish people on a single menorah, from biblical times to the establishment of the modern nation of Israel. I was particularly taken with the sculpture of Hillel, a Jewish scholar and rabbi who lived two thousand years ago.  He was once approached by a non-Jew to explain Judaism while "standing on one leg" (i.e. quickly).  Hillel replied: "What is hateful to you, do not unto your fellow man: this is the whole Law; the rest is mere commentary."  

Mt. Zion Hotel, Jerusalem

View from Mount Zion Hotel, Jerusalem

Benjamin relaxing in the Moroccan-style lobby

Mediterranean fruit and other delicacies served in our room

We are back home now, but I still have a few blog posts in me.  I would be remiss not to talk about Mount Zion Hotel, a historic hotel in Jerusalem where we had the pleasure of staying for three nights.  The hotel is actually a former British eye hospital built in the 19th century.  It sits on a hill that has spectacular views of Jerusalem (check out the picture windows in the lobby).  When we entered our room, we were delighted to find fresh fruits, nuts and sweets.  Alas, after our days of sightseeing, we were too tired to drag ourselves to the Turkish steam bath in the hotel. 

We stayed in the hotel over Shabbat.  We were firmly instructed in our hotel guide NOT to light shabbat candles in our room.  Instead, we were directed to a candle lighting area near the lobby.  Many devout Orthodox women crowded around this area to light candles that evening, at 4:04 p.m.  A little after 4 p.m. I ordered some coffee from the lobby barista and was chastised for asking him to do so.  It's work to make coffee and that's not allowed on Shabbat.  (While making coffee seems more like pleasure than work to me, I am not as well versed on Shabbat prohibitions as I should be.)   After the tongue clucking, the barista made me coffee anyway.  I guiltily sipped my coffee, looking through the picture windows of the hotel, as the sun set over Jerusalem. 

Tel Aviv color

Yarn-bombed sign on Nahalat Binyamin

Ribbon store on Nahalat Binyamin

Juice and fruit stand on Ahad Ha'am

A little color on Kalisher

More urban art near Brown Hotel

Finally, a blog post with more pictures than text.  Tel Aviv is gritty, noisy and busy, but that doesn't mean it's not fascinating.  I liked the impromtu art which softens the edges.  The top two pictures were taken just outside a cafe where we had breakfast (which I should add has been operated by the same two sisters since 1962).

55 Shekels per half kilo - Tel Aviv souk

Steven had just gotten back from giving a talk at Bal Ilan University and wanted to wander around a bit.  So we wandered to the "souk" (open air market) near our hotel.  The souk is sheer sensory overload with produce, fish, sweets, spices, and household goods.  We couldn't pass up the baklava station, which, as the merchant informed us, was priced at 55 NIS per half kilo.  Steven held up a 20 shekel note, which the merchant promptly grabbed, gave a nod of his head, and filled up a platter with whatever he chose.  Of course, it was amazing. 

Brown Hotel, TLV (Tel Aviv)

Outside the Brown Hotel, TLV

The "living room" of the Brown Hotel

Roof top terrace

The Brown Hotel on Kalisher Street in Tel Aviv is a reinvention of a four story bank building.  It's in the gritty central city and is across the street from an empty building covered with just a tad of graffiti.  But it is an oasis or urban charm and hipness once you step inside.  You can see the "living room" lobby above, complete with a cappucino machine and retro yellow fridge.  I especially admired our room, which was painted a cozy chocolate brown.  The good bottle of Israeli merlot and fine chocolates that greeted us when we stepped inside was also a big plus.  We also had a picnic dinner on the rooftop terrace, which gave you a birds' eye view of the city. 

Israeli breakfasts

I would be remiss if I didn't say a word or two about the amazing Israeli breakfasts served at most hotels in Israel.  Here's a snapshot of the cornucopia at Mt. Zion Hotel in Jerusalem. As I've said, it's like breakfast, lunch and dinner.  Your options include Mediterranean salads, cheeses, fish, fruit, yogurt, pastries (croissants and bourekas), and assorted hot dishes that have included creamed mushrooms, creamed potatoes, vegetarian lasagna, and scrambled egg delights. All dairy parve (no chicken or red meats.) Benjamin is blocking the view here, but behind him is a press to make your own orange juice from local oranges.  The omelette and waffle station are through the turquoise doors on the left.  And the coffee is the best I've ever had.  (Maybe that's why Starbucks hasn't really taken hold here.  I haven't seen one Starbucks on this trip.)  We were at Mt. Zion Hotel over Shabbat, and since no work, including cooking, is allowed on Shabbat, I was very afraid there would be no hot coffee.  But there it was.  The coffee is self serve, so maybe it is set the day before so it will brew automatically on the sabbath. The waffle station was absent on Shabbat, but it was replaced with a table overloaded with whole fruits.  You are kept well fortified, even on the day of rest.  

Golan Heights and Mount Bental

View from Mount Bental, Golan Heights

On December 30th we arrived in Tiberius, after a few wrong turns (more on getting lost in Israel later).   Tiberius is a jumping off point to explore the Galilee area and today we went to the upper Galilee, after a huge Israeli breakfast and and a few wrong turns. (Are you sensing a pattern here?)  We wound our way up to Mount Bental along surprisingly green hillsides.  When I think of Israel, I tend to think of arid landscapes and hot humid temperatures.  But it was quite green and I don't think I would have immediately thought I was in Israel.  Of course the signs by the side of the road that said Danger - Mines! did give me pause.  I noticed a few cattle grazing in the minefields so perhaps the signs are old and were just never taken down.  But I decided not to test that hypothesis.

Minefields (old?) on the way to Mount Bental

Syrian bunker at top of Mount Bental

At the top of Mount Bental is a windy outpost of bunkers and turrets once held by the Syrians and now part of Israeli territory. 

Mount Bental sits on top of the Golan Heights, and in the topmost picture you can see snow capped Mount Herman in the distance.  Below Mt. Herman is Syria, not a country we will be visiting anytime soon. You will be interested to know (I was) that the Israeli/Syrian border is the "quietest" of all Israel's borders.  A series of UN buildings sits between the Israel border and Syrian border and if you pay a few shekels and use one of the telescopes at Mount Bental like we did, you may see a UN truck or two traversing the roads there.    

Caesarea

Can't get enough of Roman ruins?  Crusader fortresses?  Byzantine walls?  Ancient  mosaics?  Have I got the place for you. Caesara, located between Haifa and Tel Aviv, has it all.  Treasures include a Roman aqueduct bordering the Mediterranean built 2,000 years ago and still standing (top),  King Louis IX's citadel dating from 1251 (middle) and beautiful mosaics of animals, fruit trees, and romping Romans (bottom).  There are also several theaters, a hippodrome for chariot races, bath houses, and water and sewage systems.  Herod built this amazing city and port and named it after his boss, Augustus Caesar.  At it's peak, 100,000 people lived here and it was the Roman capital of Palestine for nearly 600 years.  It still seems very much connected to Italy, as evidenced by the two dozen priests* having lunch across from us at one of the five restaurants at this national park. 

* Yes, that's how many there were, because I counted them.  I don't think I've ever seen that many priests gathered together in my life.