Orlando - Disney World Hollywood Studios

Disney World has been in the news lately. Florida’s governor Ron DeSantis now has the power to appoint the members of the board that supervises the development of the state’s Disney World theme parks. As he says, "there's a new sheriff in town." But don't worry, the new measure would permit Disney – one of Florida’s largest private employers – to retain its special tax district status. The Happiest Place on Earth (all 25,000 acres) doesn't seem to be missing a beat. We visited on a relatively hot Saturday in February, ready to celebrate Disney World's 50th anniversary.

Steven had come to Orlando for a scientific conference. Benjamin and I came for the weekend. First the grotto pool on Friday, then Hollywood Studios on Saturday. I chose Hollywood Studios because I wanted to see Galaxy's Edge, on the planet Batuu. According to my Unofficial Guide to Disney World, it's a "dusty backwater filled with bounty hunters, smugglers and those who make a living by not being recognized." When we visited it was a lot of people in mouse ears and Disney t-shirts trying to find the restrooms. Galaxy's Edge believes in inconspicuous signage. More immersive. Also, the stormtroopers assist in setting the mood. Here they are interrupting our photo shoot.

To really get the full experience, we rode Star Tours three times, Smugglers' Run twice, and Rise of the Resistance once. The latter ride is a "super headliner" with a line wait of 105 minutes. That's why we just did it once. I know I will berated for saying this, but I enjoyed Star Tours and Smugglers Run more. Above you see Ben and Steven in the almost empty entry to Star Tours. (Because everyone was in line waiting for Rise of the Resistance). Above them are a list of departures for foreign galaxies. Just like at a regular airport, but with hyperdrive.

While daytime Batuu has you wandering around in circles (where are those bathrooms?),

night time Batuu is magical and immersive. It makes you want to buy that $60 X-Wing Rebel pilot helmet, make your own light saber (Star Tours gift shop) and walk around like the smuggler/Jedi/rebel you really are. Here you see Ben and Steven lit up by the Millenium Falcon, and same shot (pretty much) during daylight hours. I think you can guess which experience I prefer.

Of course, you don't have to *just* do Star Wars stuff. We did other stuff too. Tower of Terror, the haunted Hollywood hotel, is a classic (see it in the distance behind us), as is the half hour Beauty and the Beast musical (all the important songs are there), Muppet Vision 3-D (best 3-D fun ever), Mickey and Minne's Runaway Railway, Toy Story Mania! and Slinky's Dog Dash (delightful coaster even for the coaster-shy). And Ben's FitBit said we only walked nine miles to see it all!

p.s. to Emily. Above is as close as we got to Olga's Cantina. It is just too popular. Next time, for sure.

Niles, CA - Niles Essanay Silent Film Museum

There is a bit of Hollywood in the Bay Area. Sure, it was the silent era, but it still counts. Charlie Chaplin's The Tramp was not filmed in Southern California. No it was filmed in Niles, California, 350 miles north of L.A., twenty miles from San Jose. Niles is now part of Fremont, CA, but in the 1910s, it was just a scrubby little outpost in the foothills of the Diablo mountains.

Essaney Studios was just a start up then too, filming mostly in Chicago, when its co-founder George/Gilbert Anderson, later known as Bronco Billy Anderson, thought the canyons around Niles would do nicely for filming Westerns. Anderson traded his suits for Western gear, and became the first Western film star. He then managed to convince Charlie Chaplin to join the studio, with a $10,000 bonus and $1,000 a week. That was a lot of money back in 1915. (But a few years later Charlie Chaplin signed with another studio - with a $150K bonus and $10K a week!)

All these movies were filmed on nitrate. Cellulose nitrate was first used as a base for photographic roll film by George Eastman in 1889; it was used for photographic and professional 35mm motion picture film until the 1950s. It is highly flammable and also decomposes with age, becoming toxic. Here you can see Steven in the 100 year old projection room, with the fireproofing of the time. If the film caught fire, you ran. There was no way to put it out; it had to burn out on its own. This is why projectionist were highly paid. It was because they could DIE. It was a dangerous profession.

Here you see Steven operating a 1915 projector. The projectionist continually turned the handle for 30 minutes (that was as much as you could get on a reel). Then, while he was changing the film, he showed a few slides to the audience, usually ads. You needed five hands.

The museum is now showing old silent films in their theater every other Saturday night, with a live pianist. (But I think you have to bring your own popcorn.)

And before the show, you can wonder down the three blocks of historic Niles. Lots of antique shops, and two ice cream shops. I was intrigued by "Mantiques" (that's "man" and "antiques" put together). Mantiques is all about old toys. Think life size Ninja Turtles and Star Wars toys from the 90s. What's not to delight?

Woodside - Filoli Estate

A day before the Superbowl (which occasioned Benjamin's visit), the entire Chessler family visited one of the largest mansions in the Bay Area, the Filoli manor. Unlike the Winchester House (see previous post) which is crazy weird and definitely haunted, Filoli is sensible and beautiful.

Fililo is just your simple 43-room country house, in the Georgian style, surrounded by a mere 650 acres. It was built in 1919 by an Irishman named Bourne whose family had made a fortune in goldmining, and had other lavish proprerties in San Francisco and Ireland.

The mansion has everything a gentleman farmer could want. The mandatory ballroom with grand piano, (because everyone needs a ballroom to entertain guests), three kitchens, a bank vault for the silver, a flower prep room, a dumb waiter, call buttons for the servants, and a room for the butler next to the kitchen.

In fact, during its heyday, it took 35 servants to run the place, most of whom lived on the estate. I learned the servants worked 14 hours a day, with only every other Sunday off. That's just wrong, but that's how it was a hundred years ago.

I intially thought the ballroom was painted with scenes of the California wilderness (a la John Muir) but it turns out these are scenes from the Bournes' Irish estate, painted after Bourne had a stroke and couldn't visit in person.

When we visited, the house was filled with orchids. Here you see the formal dining room table, completely covered.

But wait, there was more. No self-respecting 43-room mansion can also not have a garden room. Here you see said garden room just past the reflecting pool.

Inside, it was even better, with lots of fragrant paperwhites accenting the marble floors and large windows onto the garden. Because it turns out there are 16 acres of English Renaissance style gardens waiting for you beyond the garden room.

There are now 14 gardeners that maintain these grounds, and you can see why. The place is a riot of color as spring arrives, with everything in bloom. In February, the flowers of the season are daffodils and paperwhites, acres of them. Pots up and down steps and entryways, and then as you venture out into the grounds, a whole field of them.

You do have to reserve tickets in advance, but that is no problem in winter. The grounds include a cafe and garden shop, and in better weather, jazz concerts on the grounds.