Saturday, November 12, 2022
San Francisco - California Academy of Arts
In the heart of Golden Gate Park in San Francisco is the California Academy of Sciences. It is part aquarium, part planeterium, part zoo. It also has a 108,900 square foot living roof. If you took a drone and hovered above the museum, it would look like a series of green hills but with incongruous portholes scattered about. You can't see this amazing eco-roof from ground level, but it is an architechtural wonder when you do see it. All the plants flourish in a mere six inches of soil, which is layered on top of foam and other substrates that funnel water off should SF experience a big rainstorm. All the plants are California natives. When the roof was constructed in 2008, one native plant, with purple flowers, took over and flourished. It liked that roof. For a while, the roof was entirely purple. But since then, a variety of plants have been introduced, and it's mostly just green. Underneath those portholes in the picture above is the Amazonian rainforest exhibit.
And next to Claude, the albino alligator, the rainforest exhibit was my favorite. You enter the rainforest dome, and it's 82 degrees and 75% humidity. After coming out of the crisp November air, it is quite a contrast. Above you, hundreds of butterflies, and noisy birds (colorful tanagers and macaws, among others), flit about. Below, are huge Amazonian fish, including piranhas. You don't quite feel you are in San Fransciso anymore.
But then there is Claude. He was born in a Florida alligator farm in 1995, and is one of perhaps 30 albino alligators surviving worldwide in captivity. None are known to have survived in the wild. He has pink eyes and white scales, and likes to sit on his heated rock, quite immobile and oblivious to his millions of visitors. He was brought over with Bonnie, a non-albino alligator. (Get it, Bonnie and Claude? Cute, yes?). But alas, Bonnie didn't like Claude, and bit him. Bit him so hard, he lost a pinkie. So Bonnie had to go. Now Claude spends his time with snapping turtles. Claude is now 28, and 10 feet long. Every September 15th, CalAcademy throws him a big bash for his hatch day. I guess it's not a bad life.
Sunday, October 30, 2022
Dallas - Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza
Close to sixty years ago, on November 22, 1963, President John Fitzgerald Kennedy was assasinated while riding in a Cadillac down Elm Street in Dealey Plaza in the heart of Dallas. Though conspiracy theorist fans may disagree, it seems pretty clear to me that the man that killed JFK was Lee Harvey Oswald, and that he fatally shot the president from his perch on the sixth floor of the Texas School Book Depository Building at 12:30 pm that day. Above you can see the corner Oswald, a one month employee of the Texas School Book Depository, crouched down in to aim his gun, hidden by boxes of textbooks.
The building, pictured above, is now the Dallas County Administration Building, but the sixth floor has been converted into a museum. You are led through the early 60's and JFK's presidency, and then to the events of November 22nd . I learned a few things I did not know before. I did not know that Oswald worked in the building. I did not know he was questioned in the building's cafeteria minutes after the shooting, then freely walked out the building moments later. Within the hour, he shot a policeman dead, then was arrested, questioned, and then himself was shot dead by Jack Ruby, a night club owner, two days later.
Saturday, October 29, 2022
Texas - Buc-ee's. World's biggest gas convenience store?
Benjamin has earned his Texan wings. Having lived in Texas through all seasons, sampled a fair amount of BBQ, and otherwise explored the Texas landscape, he is qualified to tell us what's quintessential Texas. And that includes Buc-ee's. He took us to one of these fabled Buc-ee's on the way back from LBJ's grasslands preserve.
Was I impressed? I was impressed. It's not just the cheap gas prices (starting at $3.12 a gallon), but the 50 odd gas station bays, the half dozen car washes, and the Walmart-size convenience store. Inside that football length convenience store you will find just about everything you could find at Walmart, but add to that all things Buc-ee. Buc-ee the beaver's happy face is imprinted on everything - bandaids, nail files, key chains, and of course, clothes. Here Benjamin shows off a Buc-ee's kids costume for Halloween. I was so taken with the Buc-ee logo that I bought Steven some Buc-ee jammy bottoms. (He says they are very comfy.)
Meanwhile, we scoped out the food, of which there is quite a lot. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks (including the famous Buc-ee nuggets), and an entire aisle of jams. Buc-ee's also has an entire fridge of chocolate cookie dough. Really, it is too much and yet, you can't get enough. Filling up the car should always be such an adventure.
Monday, October 17, 2022
Texas - LBJ Grasslands Preserve, Decatur
We have put off visiting Benjamin in Dallas until it "cooled off." Now it's October and the temperature has dipped to a high of 92 degrees, so a relative improvement, and so here were are in Dallas. Today, after brisket sandwiches at Tender Smokehouse in Denton County (highly recommended), Ben drove us to the LBJ grasslands preserve near Decatur, which takes you past numerous cattle ranches along rolling hills.
The preserve, a hefty 20,309 acres, used to be home to large herds of bison, antelope, deer, and elk and was hunting grounds for the Caddo Indians. While we did see two deer, one vulture, and a whole lot of moths, it now appears to be a hot spot for equestrians and a few hardy hikers. We tried a trail ourselves, and hot was right. Just 89 degrees, but 200% humidity. To avoid melting, we cut our hike short and admired the man-made lakes instead. You can camp here too. Bring lots of water.
Sunday, October 9, 2022
Pacifica, CA and the world's most scenic Taco Bell
Pacifica, "peaceful" in Spanish, is a town in San Mateo County that hugs the Pacific Coast south of San Francisco and near Half Moon Bay. We visited on a fog-shrouded Sunday to take a hike, see the beach, but also to visit their famous Taco Bell.
You read that correctly. The fast food chain has an outpost right on the beach. This is not your typical Taco Bell.
It's housed in a weathered wood building, with a fire place inside and an expansive patio over the sand.
This Taco Bell also serves magaritas and other spirits. Here you can see Samuel with our drinks, which we ended up enjoying inside, as the ever-present fog cooled us down a bit too much.
The beach by Taco Bell is also a hot spot for surfers, all in full wet suits. We counted dozens, many learning to surf for the first time in the baby waves.
We also checked out the pier nearby, crowded with fishermen hoping to catch crabs and striped bass. Most were catching mackerel instead, which is so numerous that the Fish and Game Department lets you keep every single one, no matter the size. (Too bad they are not good eating.)
We also attempted to see the statue of Friar Junipero Serro (now Saint Serro), who in 1749 sailed to the New World from Spain and was instrumental in establishing the missions in California, with brutal consequences for the natives. In 1976, they erected his statue at a rest stop in Hillsborough off the 280. But alas, the gate leading up to Friar Serro was locked up tight, apparently due to vandalism. (#21 of 111 Places in Silicon Valley That You Must Not Miss).
Monday, September 26, 2022
Seattle: Ronnie and Jordan tie the knot!
My niece Veronica (Ronnie) (my sister Cindy's daughter) and her longtime beau Jordan were delightfully married in a private garden in South Seattle in September. The garden is acreage shared by the houses that border it, and you won't find it labeled on any map. Ronnie's uncle and aunt live on that border, and a garden wedding was planned! It was creative, it was casual, it was chill (only in attitude, it was an exceptionally hot day for Seattle). In short, it's the kind of wedding all should have.
Ronnie's magnificent dress was handmade by my sister Cindy out of satin and vintage lace. You won't find it in any bridal shop. Here Cindy and Chad lead their daughter down the garden path.
We came together for a pizza dinner served on compostable plates (Ronnie is a certified master composter) under a long tent, next to a barn with floral paintings by Ronnie's aunt Niki (you can see more of her work at the Seattle Art Museum!), with a rocket sculpture to the side.
Nearby was an artist's bungalow that has been built around an Airstream trailer. Here my mom and her youngest granchild stand in front.
And here you see the Chesslers toasting with some of our new mugs. We were invited to choose a pre-owned mug and give it a new home. (But of course not before filling it with some local wine or beer. Rainier beer anyone?)
For myself, I snagged a mug from 1989, celebrating the first one hundred years of statehood for Washington.
As it started to get dark, a DJ turned on the tunes, with a twist. Starting at 8 pm, so as not to disturb the neighbors, everyone was handed a personal headset. You could dial your music station, with the headset turning blue or green or red, depending on your musical selection. You really did dance to your own tune.
Thank you Ronnie and Jordan and all who helped you create this magical wedding and evening.
Munich - Biergartens and an old hotel
Remember our travel theme for Munich? Beer and cars? While we spent many hours at the BMW museum, we probably spent an equal amount of time enjoying the beer. They hold Oktoberfest in Munich for good reason. Look at the bucolic garden above in which Benjamin is enjoying a liter (?) of beer. And look at me below enjoying a stein.
We also enjoyed several Bavarian desserts that looked like large fried pancakes. Beware, each dessert serves about a dozen.
As it was becoming clear that we needed a mob to finish our dessert, the skies opened up and hail pelted down. We made a dash for the covered patio, but even that covering couldn't hold out this summer storm. So we made a dash for our hotel while everyone else sensibly went inside and we got thoroughly soaked.
That hotel is the Torbrau, the oldest operating hotel in Munich. It's been operation since - wait for it - 1490. They have updated the interior; the showers and faucets work very well and it is all modern chic in each room.
The hint that it's old is the miniature elevator which fits two comfortably and had to be shoehorned in between the stairs, and the scene of drinking debauchery that has been recreated at the base of the stairs, I guess to illustrate your stay at the Torbrau had it been 1490. It's like the Torbrau version of the Disneyland Pirates of the Carribean ride.
Saturday, September 17, 2022
Munich - BMW Museum and Deutsche Museum
Our theme for Munich was cars and beer. For cars, we chose the BMW museum. Based on Benjamin's animated discussion with the BMW staff about the prototype M3 station wagon (pictured above), I think it was a hit. And as we exited, the line to get in was around the building, so it's not just us.
I'm no car aficionado (just ask Benjamin) but even I found a lot to like about the BMW museum. My favorite was the BMW Isetta, otherwise known as the "bubble car." Manufactured after WWII, it held just two passengers, and there was only one door, hinged to the front. This little car saved BMW from bankruptcy as it struggled to rebuild postwar. This gem got about 78 miles to the gallon, perhaps because it was only 4.5 feet wide and 7.5 feet long. I'm sorry to say they ceased production in the 1960s, but you can buy used ones on eBay. All cars should be so fun.
The building housing BMW offices and the museum are iconic as well.
While it was a time squeeze, we also made it to the ginormous Deutsche Museum on the same day. It is the largest museum of science and technology in the world. We couldn't see it all, so we focused on aviation, space travel, bridges and robots. For the most part, exhibits are life size, hence the feeling you are in an airplane hangar.
Of special interest, since Benjamin works with robots, was the Helpmate Service Robot, circa 1990. The first robot of its kind, it was designed to be used in medical clinics to deliver medication, laboratory samples, and medical devices. It was designed by Joseph Engelberger, considered the father of robotics.
Sunday, August 28, 2022
Munich - New Design Museum at Pinakothek der Moderne
After a treacherous car return in the bowels of a parking garage under Karlsplatz, we were free to explore Munich. It's a dense but highly pleasant city of 1.5 million that looks and feels quintessentially German. After about 40% of the city was destroyed during WWII, buildings were reconstructed as they had previously appeared for the most part, bringing it back to that Bavarian Oktoberfest style. But the Pinakothek, the modern art museum, is an exception (it also helps that it was completed in 2002!). A large rectangle from the outside, the interior lobby rises up several floors with an enormous oval disk hovering at angle above your head. Precise German engineering keeps it from falling on your head. Spectacular.
We concentrated on the design museum, which is celebrating its 20th year by showcasing design advances year by year from 2002 to 2022. This included the 3-D printed chair you see above, Nike shoes that don't require tying your shoelaces, a robot that picks up trash in the ocean, and other innovations.
Furniture from half a century ago reminded me how enduring "new" styles can be. The Eames rocking chair above first appeared in 1948.
I was particularly tickled by the outdoor furniture exhibit, which featured camping furniture used in Eastern Germany, six feet tall plastic cacti, as well as the hip loungette above.
Then we moved on to the X collection. Steven described this as "sh** we have in our garage, but better organized." (Though we don't have 50 toasters either). So, should you tire of 15th-19th century architecture while traveling in Munich, I suggest a day at the Pinakothek.
Saturday, August 27, 2022
Heilingenblut and Glossglockner Hochalpenstrassen in the Austrian Alps
The pictures here will say it all. We took a detour after Salzburg through the Austrian Alps, along the Grossglockner Highway, and spent the night in Heilingenblut. Hard name to say, but beautiful to behold. Above is the view at night from our hotel toward the iconic town church of St. Vincent, established 1490. My guidebook says this is one of the most photographed sites in Austria. I think there is no need to elaborate on why.
Here's a view from our hotel, the wonderful Panoramahotel Lärchenhof.
More mind blowing pictures above, these from the town of Zell Am See, where we took a gondola up the local mountain. Cows are frequently cropping the grass here, bells ringing.
Salzburg during the Salzburg Festival
We didn't know it when we planned our trip, but our night and day in Salzburg coincided with the Salzburg Festival, which has been in operation since 1920, and is a premier venue for all classical music. The festival also accounted for the crazy crowds and even crazier parking we ecountered. Here you see Steven and Benjamin in front of Mozart's birthplace. We elected not to tour this museum, as we expected it to be wall-to-wall with tourists like ourselves. (We feel watching the Magic Flute the previous night counted toward punching our Mozart ticket.)
We did elect to have pastries and coffee at a famous coffeehouse, Cafe Tomaselli,"seit 1703." And then visited the castle on the hill, Festung Hohensalzburg. You can do it the hard way, and climb to it, or do it the easy and fun way, and take the funicular. We elected for the easy and fun route. Once in the fortress/castle, you find a miniature town that is now a museum. It was the home of a series of archbishops. Take a look at the spectular aerial view here.
Friday, August 26, 2022
Salzburg - The Magic Flute
We drove from Vienna, without opera, to Salzburg, with opera. This is the off season for opera in Vienna, but the famous Salzburg Festival is in full swing. We were able to get last minute tickets to see Mozart's The Magic Flute, performed in the city of his birth. Here we cheer our good fortune pre-show outside the theater. The Magic Flute is part fairy tale, part comedy, and part morality play, with the three lead characters all wanting to do themselves in at various points during the opera. (Perhaps not ideal for children?) The version we saw was transferred to Vienna during WWI and we learned that war was bad, very bad. I agree on that point, but the libretto didn't really match. I wanted the Sun King to be all good,but in this version the Sun King recruits soldiers to go into battle! And I wanted Papageno, the bird catcher, to be covered in feathers, but here he is the family butcher. I do the director, Lydia Steier, credit for inventiveness. And yes, the staging and singing was pretty spectacular.
Here you see the opera crowd at intermission. Note fancy dresses and leiderhosen and drindl dresses.
Thursday, August 25, 2022
Vienna - Opera tour
What's a person to do when they can't see an opera at the world famous opera house in Vienna? They take a tour of the opera house. Benjamin and I did just that, because the opera season runs September through June, and it's still August. Tours are offered in multiple languages and give you some behind-the-scenes views, and what I consider front stage views. Case in point. Here you see our group in one of the better box seats in the house.
And here you see the rest of the opera auditorium. When I first saw it, I thought it looked very 1950s. Nothing like the lobby, which is all 19th century Renaissance style (the house was completed in 1869). But in the waning days of WWII, the opera was bombed, and the auditorium had to be rebuilt (in part with funds from the Marshall Plan). And so they did a midcentury modern style, with goldleaf. I'm not a fan, but so be it.
Contrast this with the lobby, pictured above. We also were led through the various intermission lounges, which were either elaborate 19th century masterpieces or 1952 modern art. The opera operates every day of the season, except for Christmas and the Opera Ball, For the Ball, all seats are removed and a dance hall assembled. Debutantes dance the waltz, and ballerinas entertain the crowds. And a box seat at the event is only 25,000 Euros.
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