Near Queen's Beach, not far from the craziness of Waikiki's main strip, is Barefoot Beach Cafe. We arrived for the dinner line Saturday night around 5:30. There is always a line, but every night there is always music and a view of the ocean. A multinational quartet (Guam, England, Indonesia, and America all represented) played Hawaiian tunes, accompanied by a havurah of hulu dancers, who danced barefoot and told us stories with their hands. All while we stood in line, and then while we enjoyed our pineapple smoothies served in a whole pineapple.
While waiting in line, there was a little hulu lesson too. I was happy to watch about two dozen tourists give it a go. Later we watched a spry 82 year old man, a hulu legend, dance a few numbers. He'd been a hulu dancer in Waikiki in the 1950s, and on the silver screen in beach movies. It all felt very magical.
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