Rome - The Tale of two receipts

I have a lot of receipts from my trip to Italy (and in fact, the guidebooks advise you to get receipts to ensure taxes are paid by the natives as tax evasion is rampant in Italy), but I especially like these two receipts because they are a reminder of two unexpected pauses in our trip. 

Bar 3 Porte, simply marked Caffee, Testaccio neighborhood

The receipt on the left is from the quiet working-class neighborhood of Testaccio.  My DK guidebook only mentions that Testaccio has a large open air market.  My Moon guidebook tells me the area has no tourist attractions, but that is an attraction itself.  (As you enter the tourist areas of Rome, you are surrounded by migrants selling selfie sticks and scarfs, and clumps of visitors following a multilingual guide with a tall umbrella.  It can be overwhelming. Testaccio has none of that.)  We found our way to Testaccio by way of the Roman Forum, the Jewish Ghetto, and Travestere, in that order.  Along the way we saw tree lined streets along the Tiber river and the quieter side of Rome. 

We stopped in Bar 3 Porte (simply marked Caffe) while we were waiting for the local pizzeria (Remo) to open across the street in Piazza Liberatrice.  We were across the street from a busy playground and I heard not a whiff of English.  We ordered a cappuccino and espresso from the bar, and admired the vaulted ceiling and inlaid marble floors.  It was if we’d stepped inside a Roman ruin.  Locals stopped by, bellied up to the bar, and chatted with the barista.  It was all very congenial. 

Steven doesn't need that map.  He's in St. Peter's Square

The receipt on the right is from the little cafeteria tucked away near the cupola of the largest church in the world, St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City.  For 6 Euros (8 Euros if you take the elevator), you can ascend to both the interior of the cupola and the exterior balcony.  The elevator saves you some exertion, but there is still a twisting, claustrophobic and steep ascent to the top of the cupola. At one point you must lean right to pass.

Climbing to the top of St. Peter's Cupola - a narrow, slanted passage

The cupola was designed by Michelangelo himself, and required the effort of 600 workers over many years.  From the interior of the dome, we could observe Mass being conducted under a magnificent sunburst, rendered in stained glass.  A choir in purple accompanied the priest.  (We knew it wasn’t Pope Francis, as 1) the place would have been mobbed and 2) he conducts Mass under the “Baldachinno,” a magnificent bronze canopy sculpted by Bernini.  Only the pope can use the Baldachinno.)

On the way to the top of the cupola, it's best to pause and 

Mass at St. Peter's, viewed from the cupola

Only the Pope can conduct services under the Baldachinno

But back to the cafeteria.  This was tucked in next to a souvenir shop, staffed by nuns, and a Vatican postal box.  A slightly bored Roman served us cappuccino, creamed coffee (think chilled whipped

coffee) and lemon pastries.  Scrumptious of course, this being Italy.

A snack at the world's holiest cafeteria

Our seat was next to the open door, looking out on the rooftop.  From here you can see a series of saints that line St. Peter’s Square, perched on top of St. Peter’s Basilica and a colonnade designed by Bernini.  Beneath the statue of Jesus is the balcony from which Pope Francis blesses the crowd every Sunday.       

Top of St. Peter's