Tahiti: Bora Bora: Tohora snorkeling trip, swimming with rays

While there is some shore side snorkeling in Bora Bora (south side of Matira Beach is great), to see rays, sharks, and maybe a humpback whale, you need a guide. We got a great one in Vincent, a French man with Tahitian tatoos, and island resident of 25 years. OUr group included three French tourists and four Americans, so Vincent happily narrated in both languages.

Starting mid-island in Vaitape, we circumnavigated the island looking for choice snorkeling spots. Our first stop was a coral nursery in shallow turquoise water, with blue and purple clams (as they open, the inside is bright blue or purple), and iridiscent juvenile fish. Much of the coral was also purple, but Vincent told us this color was a sign of stress. Healthy Tahitian coral is normally mustard colored. But the lagoon has been three degrees warmer than normal over the last several winters (July is winter in Tahiti), and parts of Bora Bora's coral beds are stressed.

Vincent next took us to deeper water to see manta rays, the largest rays in Bora Bora. Vincent told us there is a manta ray in the area that is 21 feet long, though she lives outside the lagoon. Manta rays can also jump eight feet or more out of the water; Vincent has seen it himself twice. But for us, today, it was love season for the manta rays, with the males chasing the females. The females are bigger and faster, but really, it all looks like an elegant underwater dance. Depths change abruptly at this location, from six inches to 90 feet. (Another good reason to go with a guide.)

Last, we went to a spot Vincent knew was frequented by the smaller, dotted eagle rays. From our boat, they look like black rocks that glide. And bonne chance, we found a group. In we went again. A group of five or six were circling about in turquoise clear water. And then, not too far away, I spotted a black tipped reef shark. Our boatmates from Texas estimated it was five feet long, though hard to say. After that, well exhausted, we finished our tour at Matira Beach. We had worked up an appetite, and had Poisson Cru du Coco (raw tuna in coconut milk, a famous Polynesian dish) at a small snack shop near by with a view of white sand and turquoise water. The tour we used was Tohora Bora Bora and our guide was Vincent. He's out on these waters five days a week, and snorkels with you (along with his bright red life ring, to guide you and save you, should that be necessary). Highly recommend!