Sunday, August 3, 2025

San Francisco Staycation: Russian Hill exploration

I have been contemplating moving to San Francisco. This week is a trial run. Via SabbaticalHomes.com we found a lovely condo in Russian Hill to stay for a week. It has amazing views of the Bay and Coit tower. It even features a tiny garage. And it's on a bit of a steep hill (not a unique thing in SF), so you can get some exercise.
Today, Saturday, we settled in and went for a walk. If you head downhill, you are in North Beach, Hyde Pier, Ghiradelli Square, Fisherman's Wharf. A few cable cars run through this area, with thick lines of tourists waiting to ride.
We are also quite close to the "crookedest street in SF" (not quite true, but prettiest crookedest street in SF for sure), Lombard Street. We walked up Francisco Street at dusk for the magnificent views, then walked down that "crookedest" street. Cars line up at the top, often waiting 45 minutes, to take the curves down for one block, but the pedestrian sidewalk is just a straight shot down. The last car we saw going down was a large Hummer, hip hop blaring from the open windows. The homes on the famous street are beautiful, but living on a tourist attraction could lose its appeal quickly.
For a late lunch/snack we went to Cafe de Casa and enjoyed pour over coffee, a cheese bread sandwich with mozzarella and avocado, and an acai bowl. It is near Fisherman's Wharf but doesn't feel touristy, just relaxing.
For dinner we headed down Francisco and turned right on Mason to enjoy Ristorante Fior d'Italia, established 1886, and billed as the oldest Italian restaurant in America. (Though ChatGPT said there is some argument about this, as the restaurant had to be rebuilt and has changed ownerhsip.) But this homey Italian restaurant sits in the family run San Remo Hotel( operating since 1906) and has a come-as-you-are-and-bring-the-family vibe. I can also vouch for the ravioli filled with pumpkin and sprinkled with toasted pine nuts, and the mousse-like tiramusu. I expect we will have more Italian, as nearby North Beach is a traditional Italian neighborhood, chock a block full of the best Italian restaurants.
Move to SF? Tally so far: Pro's: Lively. Great Victorian architecture (except for Brutalist building across the street). Great people watching. Excellent food. Views to die for. Don't need to sign up for a gym if you go up and down a few hills every day. New mayor, Daniel Lurie, is making smart moves to clean up the place and bring in new businesses, especially of the AI variety. (I counted a dozen billboards advertising AI on the way into the city.)
Cons: Cold. 63 degrees in August with a wind chill. There is a reason no one is sitting on the beach at Hyde Pier with bikinis on. Instead, there is some guy laying on the beach layered up in a puffy jacket and boots (see picture for proof), and the swimmers are wearing wet suits. In August. Noisy. Hills so steep they put steps into the sidewalks. Cars honking. Noisy seagulls and parrots (but this, I forgive.) Parking is impossible.

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