France: Churches and Cathedrals

While I know I’m might be exaggerating just a mite, it seems like you can’t throw a stick in France without hitting a cathedral or church.

Steven and I saw our fair share of cathedrals and churches in France (such that Steven said he was “churched out” by the time we got to Portugal, though we did see a Manueline Gothic church in Lisbon anyway. More on that later.) Every cathedral I saw was magnificent, an architectural and spiritual marvel.

Not being Catholic, I had to educate myself on cathedrals. It is a church, but with a bishop, so a much bigger deal. (A bishop is third in the hierarchy of clergy, below the pope and above priests and deacons.) I was also reminded that cathedrals have their own architectural vocabulary. You have the nave and the transept and chancel (alter) and ambulatory and tower and choir and crypt, and my favorite, the tympanum. I quote Google’s AI here: “A tympanum is a decorative wall surface above an entrance, door, or window that is enclosed by an arch and lintel.” Basically, it’s the sculpture above the door that tells a biblical story or the story of a saint (usually martyrdom of the saint, alas). I also learned that during the French Revolution and the French Wars of Religion, a lot of these statutes and sculptures were beheaded and defaced. I saw a lot of history erased.

Cathedrals have several styles as well, but mainly Romanesque (rounded arches), and Gothic (pointed arches). And often they are mixed together. Here's another thing, except for St. Chapelle (which is not actually a cathedral), cathedrals take a long time to build, often interrupted by wars and invasions. But like a pearl, the cathedral is added on to over time in beautiful ways. The Bayeux cathedral, for example, has sections built from the 11th Century to the 19th Century! Herewith, some special features of the cathedrals and churches I saw.

Notre Dame, Paris. This is the mother of all cathedrals, but alas, under repair since the devastating fire of 2019 in which the roof mostly collapsed. See my separate post on Notre Dame Paris.

Ste Chapelle, Paris. 13th century. Tour de force of stained glass, plus all the stories of the bible. If you can crane your neck for long periods of time you can find them all. Built at record speed to house the relic of Jesus' crown of thorns. See my separate post on this architectural and spiritual marvel.

Rouen Cathedral. Rebuilt in the 13th century after it was destroyed by the Vikings and fire, it was rebuilt again after WWII. Its cast iron spire, built in the 19th century, is the highest in France. Claude Monet painted its façade 30 times. It is said to be a fine example of “flamboyant” Gothic style (think “frilly”). Contains the tombs of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy (and a Viking), and Richard the Lionheart (specifically, the heart of Richard the Lionheart!!), and a chapel dedicated to St. Joan of Arc, who was burned at the stake in Rouen in 1431. Contains tympanums of the Last Judgment (featuring a hellish hot tub) and the Tree of Jesse (with a tree growing out of Jesse’s back, all the way up to Jesus).

Rouen’s Church of St. Joan of Arc. Located on the site of Joan of Arc’s execution in 1431, this church will stay in your memory. It is a modern church from 1970 (of which there aren’t so many in France). The exterior hides the light filled interior. Built in in the shape of an overturned Viking longship, it straddles the ruins of older churches. Stained glass from the 16th century church is preserved in a soaring wall of glass, white and colored. Moving and not to be missed.

Bayeux Cathedral. Built by William the Conqueror’s half-brother Bishop Odon. Dedicated on July 14, 1077. It was here the famous Bayeux Tapestry was exhibited before the tapestry got its own museum. Only the crypts from that time period remain (beautifully decorated with angel musicians). Now contains a stained-glass window representing the coat of arms of the military battalions that freed Bayeux during WWII and prevented the town’s destruction.

Jumieges Abbey. A cathedral and church and abbey in ruins thanks to the French Revolution. But the most beautiful ruins. A meditative mix of styles. Bring a picnic and feel the vibes. See my separate post.

Mt. St. Michel Abbey Church. It’s not technically a cathedral (because run by monks and not a bishop), but it sure feels like a cathedral, built in the shape of a cross with soaring ceilings and flying buttresses. It was never sacked by invading armies, but then it’s on an island with tides that come in like a “galloping horse.” Getting to the abbey involves a tortuous sweaty climb, but its not a pilgrimage without some effort.