Wednesday, September 4, 2024
Normandy - Rouen - Medieval McDonald's
While in Rouen you must wander around the oldest part of the city. By old, I mean 14th century through 19th century old. This section of Rouen contains half-timbered buildings that survived the WWII bombings in 1944. There are still 2,000 of these buildings left, about 100 built before 1520. Because the local limestone was too soft and there were a lot of oak forests in the area, this was the building of choice from the 14th to 19th century. Oak beams provided the skeleton of the building; with intervening spaces filled in with a mix of clay or straw or whatever was available.
In our Rick Steves' guidebook he mentions the "Medievel McDonald's" and I thought he was joking. But no, the McDonald's on Rue du Gros Horloge (Street of the Big Clock) is indeed housed in a half-timbered building. Not only that, but it is one of the 100 dating before 1520. How do I know this? Rick Steves to the rescue again. If a half-timbered building "leans out," that is, the upper floors extend past the lower floor, the building was likely constructed before 1520. This is because in 1520 the town decreed that future buildings had to have a flat facade to increase air flow.
How could we not pass up having a burger at a medievel McDonald's? Inside was a modern two story restaurant, higher end than you see in the states. Ordering was done on a self-serve kiosk in the language of your choice. In addition to the usual standards, you could also order beer and French dessert (like macarons). We placed our order, took a numbered table tent, and sat by the stained glass windows on the second floor. The stained glass was not original but it fit with the 14th century. Otherwise, I would call it mid-century modern. A server brought us our food (but not as fast in the states, so cool your heels), and no tip expected. It seemed a popular spot with the locals, and I wondered why, as it doesn't approach the culinary greatness of typical French food. Google supplied that it is because McDonald's is open continuously, for a lot of hours. Now that the French work just 35 hours a week, restaurants can't always afford to staff for long hours. As we discovered in Jumienges (future post), if you don't eat your lunch between 12 and 2, you can't have lunch. Restaruant dinner hours often start at 7 p.m. McDo's (as the French say), fills the gap.
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