Lisbon: Alfama: Hills, Trams and Tuk Tuks

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and its biggest city. Three quarters of this long-inhabited city were destroyed in the massive earthquake of 1755, but Alfama, which existed before Lisbon did, remains. My guidebooks tell me it is a must stop for every tourist, and we were certainly part of that crowd. We stayed at a hotel in Alfama, built into the side of a hill. Arriving aboard the express train from Porto (a pleasant 3.5 hour ride with views of vineyards and cornfields) we arrived at St. Apolonia station at the base of Alfama and noted we were only a kilometer (about half a mile) from our hotel.

We had packed relatively lightly, there were wheels on our suitcases, why not just walk there? Ah, but this is not Kansas.

It’s all uphill via a labyrinth of cobbled lanes and steep staircases. Thanks to Google Maps, we found our way but arrived at the front desk out of breath and unpleasantly sweaty. (We later learned you go uphill a block to catch ride shares. This, of course, is where we did to catch our Uber to the airport at the end of our stay. So much more pleasant.)

Our guidebook advised us the joy of Alfama “lies in getting lost.” It’s not hard to do. Many walk around with their heads down looking at Google Maps on their phone. For once, my lack of direction didn’t hinder me, because I remember landmarks much better (that staircase also had a ramp; this restaurant is around the corner from our hotel) and often led the way, as Steven looked down at his phone. In Alfama, you are either going up or going down. Going down is toward the Tagus River; up is to St. George’s castle. And if you get tired (and you will) you sit on a step and observe all the layers of life in Alfama. We chose to walk uphill and discovered trams and tuk tuks chugging, chugging up and down, ready to help you avoid sweating out the climb. Tuk tuks are like golf carts, but tougher, and usually wildly and beautifully decorated. Tuk tuks are regulated but are open air. Not generally a problem in Lisbon, which can get hot and very hot. Just read that the City of Lisbon wants to limit the number of Tuk Tuks, but for now they are ubiquitous. We never rode a Tuk Tuk, but rode old trams and new trams and buses and trains. Transportation options in Lisbon are excellent and cheap. Leave your rental car in the rental lot, please!

Our sweaty climb uphill rewarded us with amazing vistas. By getting lost we had discovered St. Lucy’s overlook, near the statue of St. Vincent, the patron saint of Lisbon.